Images by Johnny Stephens Photography
The no and low alcohol space is … well … rather crowded, but in a good way! The choice we have now is so far removed from the days of a simple decision between sugary or artificial fruit juice drinks, flavour-lacking (that's a euphemism!) no-alcohol beer or water … and the options keep on growing in exciting and innovative ways.
According to IWSR Drinks Market Analysis, the category grew by more than 6% in volume in 10 key global markets in 2021 and now commands a 3.5% volume share of the industry. So, it's always a pleasure to discover new products in this sphere. One class of alcohol-free drinks that's literally brewing with possibilities is sparkling tea.
Saicho Founders, Natalie Chiu and Charlie Winkworth-Smith
Saicho is the creation of Natalie Chiu and her husband, Charlie Winkworth-Smith, who established the luxurious effervescent tea brand in the United Kingdom in 2019.
Born and raised in Hong Kong with a PhD in Food Science from the University of Nottingham, Natalie had been exposed to two cultures that celebrate tea as an essential part of their cultural identity. This paved the way for her new venture - Saicho sparkling teas. After launching in the UK, she brought the brand to Hong Kong. Now, she is working with renowned sommeliers, hoteliers and chefs, serving Saicho at the dining tables of The Dorchester, Darjeeling Express, Nobel Hotel Portman Square and the Grand Hotel Birmingham.
Natalie was inspired to create Saicho through her own experience with the lack of high quality, premium drinks with the ceremony and complexity of wine. "Charlie and I were enjoying a delicious pairing menu at a restaurant", she explains. "The sommelier came over to describe the wine that my husband was enjoying with his meal. He shared its country of origin, the terroir, the production techniques and why it paired well with the dishes. Meanwhile, I sat with the same glass of water throughout the meal, missing out on the full experience, as I have an intolerance to alcohol. At this moment, I realised there was a gap in the market."
For Natalie, this was a defining moment and led to her developing a new premium, food-worthy, non-alcoholic alternative, as she explains. "At that time, there weren't any non-alcoholic drinks that paired well with food or had a comparable complexity of flavour or any noteworthy origin. Given my background and experience in both Hong Kong and the UK, I knew there was huge potential in tea to create something exceptional. Hence, with the support of my husband, we began cooking up the idea for a sparkling tea that creates a new dimension to food pairing without the need for alcohol."
Over two years, the couple tried hundreds of different teas, before narrowing down their search to their three favourites - Jasmine, Darjeeling and Hojicha. "We chose these teas", explains Natalie, "as they showcase the incredible variety of flavour that tea can offer, from floral to fruity, nutty to smoky, candied to umami - all dependent on the variety, terroir and production method."
Each Saicho tea has been selected from specific regions and harvested at certain times to create different levels of acidity, sweetness and mouthfeel that complement certain foods and flavours. The tea leaves are cold-brewed for 24 hours to extract the delicate aromatics without over-extracting the bitter and astringent compounds. This produces a clean, crisp and complex flavour profile. The drinks are then delicately sparkled to enhance the natural aromatics of the tea and allowing their unique flavours to shine.
The complex and nuanced profiles of these teas make them the perfect accompaniment to many different types of food, or enjoyed at home with friends and family. They are best served chilled in a Champagne glass.
"I know that I am not alone in suffering from alcohol intolerance", says Natalie. "I believe that the UK's tea drinking culture and love for discovering new food and drink, as well as increased interest in low alcohol or more health conscious alcohol alternatives mean that Saicho is a great choice for discerning drinkers. I hope that customers will be impressed by Saicho's unparalleled flavour which elevates every dining and drinking occasion without the need for alcohol."
The couple work closely with suppliers and tea farmers to source the highest quality single origin teas from around the world. They place great importance on being transparent with customers. So, they add the coordinates of the tea region from where each tea is sourced. They have also collaborated with an exceptionally talented artist who created beautifully ornate and elegant label designs that showcase the national bird of each tea's country of origin.
For their first three drinks, Natalie and Charlie were keen to select teas from the major, iconic tea producing regions - China, India and Japan.
Scented with Jasmine blossoms, this green tea from Fuding, in Fujian province, China, has a delicate floral aroma and notes of apple sherbet, elderflower, lychee and vanilla, making it a refreshing, elegant and refined aperitif. It pairs well with spicy Asian salads and many desserts, including Eton Mess, summer pudding, green tea ice cream etc.
This black tea was grown in the foothills of the Himalayas in Darjeeling, India. Harvested in the summer to develop its aromatic and fruity character, the tea has notes of mandarin, ginger, hints of peach and cedarwood with a slightly smoky edge plus mild, dry tannins. This sparkling tea pairs particularly well with grilled meats, lamb tagine and lasagne (meat or vegetarian).
Originating in Kyoto in the 1920s as a way of utilising leftover leaves, stems, stalks and twigs, Hojicha is a roasted green tea from Japan. It has an umami/savoury character with delicate notes of nori seaweed and roasted hazelnut. There's a touch of smoke too and the finish shows fine and dry, woody tannins. This tea would pair well with sushi, roast beef or mushroom risotto.
In November 2021, Saicho launched a new Rare Tea Collection which offers tea connoisseurs and discerning drinkers the chance to try some of the world's most exquisite teas. The first tea in the collection, Eight Immortals is a rare Dan Cong oolong tea from the Phoenix Mountain in China's Guangdong Province, noted for its mineral-rich soils, foggy climate and rocky landscape. This lightly roasted tea with its elegant, spiced aromas shows subtle, refined notes of tangerine, mango, ginger and sweet baking spices on the complex palate. It pairs well with soft cheeses or spiced dishes such as harissa roasted squash.
During this year's London International Wine Fair, which had a superb dedicated no-alcohol section, I spoke to Charlie Winkworth-Smith about the philosophy behind the company's range of teas. "With wines and spirits", he told me, "there's a real romance around them with beautiful histories and back stories. Often non-alcoholic drinks are missing some of that. So for our whole range, but particularly our rare tea collection, we wanted to bring some of that romance to what we're offering. Therefore, people can have that sense of occasion and feel really proud of what they're drinking. It has the interest, back story, history and culture."
Saicho sparkling teas are great for sipping on their own as an aperitif or for food pairings. They are also wonderful in cocktails and there are several cocktail recipes, which you can find on the website. These offer both alcoholic and non-alcoholic options.
Saicho is available in a selection of premium hotels and restaurants in the UK, Hong Kong and Singapore. You can also buy these teas through Saicho's online shop. A 200ml bottle of Jasmine, Darjeeling or Hojicha) costs £4.99, while a 750ml bottle is £17.45 and a 750ml bottle of Eight Immortals costs £32.99. Details of stockists can be found here.
