All images © Robin Goldsmith
Prosecco has been a huge success story around the world, particularly the DOC classification. While Prosecco Superiore DOCG expressions from Conegliano Valdobbiadene are relatively easy to find, those from Asolo perhaps remains lesser known or represented within the UK, but is this about to change? In 2023, The Write Taste reported on the food matching potential of Asolo Prosecco. A few weeks ago, an organised visit to this beautiful part of northern Italy 🇮🇹 further demonstrated the quality and versatility of the different Asolo Prosecco styles. However, it was another aspect of the region that was impossible to ignore - its fascinating culture and history.
Asolo Prosecco region: image provided by the Asolo Consorzio
Palladian villas are widespread in the Veneto area and are also important reminders of tradition and history. These include the magnificent Villa Barbaro, aka Villa di Maser, where wine has been made since the 16th century.
Villa Maser
Villa Sandi is one of the largest Prosecco producers and has a Palladian style villa, dating back to 1622, which the Moretti Polegato family acquired at the end of the 1970s. Manuela Oregna explains further. "The villa is the symbol of Villa Sandi, but it's more than that. From the 15th to the 18th centuries, during the Serenissima Republic, Venice was very important from a cultural, economic and political point of view. At those times, many noble or very wealthy families from the city had villas like this built in the countryside. So the villa is the link between the countryside and the splendour of Venice."
Villa Sandi
The 12th/13th century fortress, or Rocca, on the top of Monte Ricco, is still the landmark of the town and is included, along with the local hills, in the logo of Asolo Prosecco and the Consorzio.
The beauty of these Venetian buildings is matched by the town of Asolo itself. This stunning walled town is a beguiling mix of Roman, medieval and Renaissance architecture. Developing from a village dating back to between the 15th and the 12th centuries BCE, Asolo (or Acelum) expanded during Roman times and you can still find the remains of a Roman theatre, forum, aqueduct etc.
It grew considerably in the Middle Ages, before being annexed by the 'Repubblica Serenissima'. It was during this period that the Venetian rulers decorated the facades of houses with frescos and Gothic-style windows, the splendour of which can be seen today. Additionally, Asolo became known as a source of excellent wines, to the extent that those made in the local hills were deemed to be of such good quality that they were taxed higher than other wines!
Rocca di Asolo
The 19th/early 20th century Italian poet, Giosuè Carducci, called Asolo 'La Città dai Cento Orizzonti' (The City of 100 Horizons), referring to the many beautiful views from its hilltop position.
Frescos on the walls in Asolo town centre
There are several prominent historical figures associated with the area and some of these are described below:-
Caterina Cornaro was a Venetian noblewoman from the Repubblica Serenissima and the first individual to have real influence on Asolo. Previously Queen of Cyprus, Jerusalem and Armenia, on her return to Italy, she became ruler of Asolo in 1489, governing until 1509. During her time in power, art and culture became particularly important and many Venetians came to live in the town.
One of the cultural highlights of the region is the Gypsotheca, the museum, in the town of Possagno, dedicated to the life and art of iconic neoclassical sculptor, Antonio Canova. A tour starts at a reproduction of his Roman-style workshop, displaying the different stages of his sculpting method, before a visit to the main part of the museum which contains a selection of his marble creations.
Antonio Canova Gyspotheca museum in Possagno
Born in 1757, Canova's stonemason grandfather allowed the child prodigy to study in Venice. However, when he was in his early 20s, he moved to Rome where he became an independent sculptor and his career really started. His skill and fame spread around the world and he received commissions from Napoleon, the Pope, George IV of the UK and other important figures of the time. Even Thomas Jefferson advised the North Carolina State House in Raleigh to ask Canova to create a statue of George Washington.
The museum was built in 1833, further enhancing Asolo's status as a place of important artistic and cultural heritage, as well as beauty.
As the town's repute grew during the 19th and 20th centuries, artists and literary figures, mainly from England and America, came to the area on vacation, but also to settle and enjoy a different style of life as a first or second home. One of these was the English poet, Robert Browning. He came to the town at the beginning of the 19th century, interested in discovering medieval places mentioned by Dante in the Divine Comedy. Falling in love with Asolo, he spent three long periods in the town and eventually died there. He even named his final collection of poetry Asolando. A street in the town centre is named after Robert Browning.
House of Eleonora Duse
Eleonora Duse was an Italian actress who became very popular at the end of the 19th century and beginning of the 20th century. She died in the USA while on tour, exactly 100 years ago, so this year, the town is celebrating the anniversary of Eleonora Duse. She was buried in Asolo, as her last house was in the town, and she had written a letter in which she stated that she "would like to be buried in front of Monte Grappa".
Whereas Asolo castle was once the palace of Caterina Cornaro, it is now the home of the Eleonora Duse theatre.
The town of Asolo is also inextricably linked with Freya Stark, an English explorer, traveller, journalist and author who lived there. Her magnificent house and garden are a must-see for any visitor to the town.
She was gifted the property in the 1940s by English photographer, Herbert Young who knew her parents. During the second world war, she worked with the English government, growing her own reputation. Her friendship with the Queen Mother and others from English high society brought many people to the town and to her house, further increasing Asolo's renown. Objecting and campaigning against the building of nearby factories in the 1970s, she sold the house and lived out of the public eye in the hills to the west. However, the allure of Asolo never left her, so she returned and spent her last years in a rented apartment in the town centre. Her impact on and fondness for Asolo is remembered by many to this day, as she died in 1993, while many of today's residents were still alive.
The town cemetery contains the tombs of both Freya Star and Eleonora Duse.
Asolo cemetery
Yes, there's even a connection with the black gold! Eleonora Duse's granddaughter had sold the family house to Rupert Guinness, Chairman of the famous brewing business. He already had a house in Venice and decided to create a business to provide jobs to local people in the Asolo area. So he founded the shoe factory, SCARPA, that is now known throughout the world. The name is an acronym for Calzaturieri Asolani Riuniti Pedemontana Anonima (Association of Footwear Manufacturers from the mountain area of Asolo). Guinness' friendship with Giuseppe Cipriani, founder of the famous Harry's Bar and Belmond Hotel Cipriani in Venice, led to the opening of the 5-star Hotel Cipriani in Asolo, encouraging more visitors to the region.
The above is a whistle-stop tour through some of the cultural highlights of Asolo, but you really have to go there to appreciate its history and beautiful views!
So, what about the wine? 🥂
Asolo is the fourth largest Italian sparkling appellation. The Consortium was created in 1985 and Asolo Prosecco was awarded DOCG status in 2009, along with the neighbouring Conegliano Valdobbiadene region, to distinguish both these hilly zones from the flatter Prosecco DOC area. Five years later, the first Extra Brut Prosecco (up to 6g/l residual sugar) was made in Asolo. In 2023, around 27 million bottles of Asolo Prosecco were produced with 60% exported, the USA being the main market.
The production zone for Asolo Prosecco lies in the province of Treviso, at the foot of Monte Grappa in the high hills west of the River Piave in the shadow of the Dolomites. It's a relatively untouched, pristine and rural area, covering 18 communes around the town of Asolo. There are approximately 2,700 hectares of vineyards here, while Conegliano Valdobbiadene has 8,700 hectares under vine.
The Asolo Prosecco zone
Soils vary from limestone/calcareous marl in the heart of the Colli Asolani to iron-rich clay further east in Montello. Steep hillside slopes and the proximity of the Adriatic with resultant cooling breezes create a large diurnal range with warm/hot summers and moderately cold winters, while rainfall is spread fairly evenly throughout the year. As a result, grapes can reach ripeness with full phenolic maturation and importantly retain good levels of acidity. Yields are quite low, compared to the rest of the Prosecco area, with 13½ tonnes per hectare typical.
The Asolo denomination has the largest area of organic vineyards within Prosecco DOC and Prosecco DOCG and all harvesting is carried out by hand. The region is rich in biodiversity with grapes, chestnut trees, olives, herbs, cereals and other vegetation thriving.
A vineyard view at Progress Country & Wine House
Typical characteristics of Asolo Prosecco include white flowers and aromatic herbs, pear, crunchy apple, pink grapefruit and kumquat. Additionally, minerality and salinity are further defining features.
Glera is the main grape, but 15% of Verdiso, Bianchetta Trevigiana, Perera, Glera Lunga, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio are allowed too. The Extra Dry style (12-17g/l residual sugar) represents 74% of Asolo Prosecco produced and has traditionally been regarded by locals as the true expression. However, production is tending to move towards Extra Brut or Brut now.
View from a hillside vineyard at Tenuta Baron
For Andrea Sbrissa, co-owner and Managing Director of Tenuta Baron, lower sugar levels can help bring out the uniqueness of the Asolo Prosecco style. "We try to go for a drier style", he says, "and that way you can feel more of the minerality and saltiness. That's the big difference between us and Valdobbiadene Conegliano."
Tulip-shaped concrete tank at Progress Country & Wine House, currently used for fermentation of Recantina
It's not just Prosecco that's made in the region, but still white and red wines too and there's a certain amount of experimentation. For example, at Progress Country & Wine House, they make a Recantina Asolo Montello DOC, using a tulip-shaped concrete tank for fermentation.
Recantina is an indigenous variety that virtually disappeared after phylloxera, but about 20 years ago, one winemaker in the area discovered a single, small plant. After some research, he restarted cultivation and there are currently around 10-12 wineries within the Consorzio Asolo Montello that produce wine from this grape. At Progress, they also grow Pinot Noir (unusual for the area) which they use for their Col del Sol Prosecco range. Additionally, they have an experimental vine of Pinot Meunier which they have not yet harvested.
An 'alley' of olive trees, surrounded by plantings of Glera, Bianchetta, Perera and Verdiso at Tenuta Baron
At sustainability-certified Tenuta Baron, 80% of production is sparkling wine and the rest is still white and red. In addition to Glera, they have plantings of local varieties, such as Bianchetta, Perera and Verdiso. They also have a couple of rows of Boschera, a grape variety that doesn't need as much sun as Glera. "I know it's not a huge amount", says Sbrissa, "but it's good enough to start some experiments and try different things."
Tenuta Baron limited edition wines in beautiful bottles illustrated by a local artist
In addition to limited editions in specially illustrated bottles, Tenuta Baron also makes a Manzoni Bianco IGT, a sparkling rosé from a blend of Raboso, Verduzzo and Merlot, and other still red and white blends from local and international grape varieties.
A selection of Asolo wines tasted
In addition to these sparkling expressions, visits to three of the wineries mentioned earlier provided further recommendations.
A selection of Progress Country & Wine House wines
These Proseccos from Progress' range particularly impressed:-
A selection of Villa Sandi wines
Villa Sandi produces a range of Prosecco styles, as well as other wines from their various estates around the Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia regions.
A selection of Tenuta Baron wines
Enjoy a fabulous meal and elegant accommodation at the impressive Locanda Sandi in nearby Valdobbiadene
Asolo has many delicious wines, but this small, beautiful area of the Veneto offers so much more. Its fascinating history, culture and art lie alongside wonderful food and amazing views. There are plenty of tourism options, including vineyard stays and the local cuisine is unsurprisingly delicious 😋. Any visit to the Prosecco heartlands of Northern Italy should certainly include this jewel of the region. Buon viaggio!
