On October 2nd 2023, the first Volcanic Wines of the World tasting was held in central London. Warmly greeted and enjoyed by everyone who attended, this groundbreaking event showcased an amazing selection of wines made from grapes grown on volcanic soil in several countries around the globe.
This tasting also marked the first time that wines from Lanzarote were shown in the UK by Wine Shop Lanzarote.
The furthest north-east of the major Canary Islands, Lanzarote is the fourth largest and the second oldest of the archipelago (Fuerteventura is the oldest). Located just under 80 miles west of Morocco, it's the closest island to Africa, thought to owe its name to a Genoese Sailor, Lancellotto Malocello, who arrived there in the 14th century. Lanzarote later became the first of the islands to be fully colonised by European raiders, but the last to be planted with vines, brought from Europe.
In 1730, volcanic eruptions in what is now called the Parque Nacional de Timanfaya (Timanfaya National Park) lasted for six years, destroying the central plains of Lanzarote. These previously produced the main crops of the island and became covered with volcanic ash and rock fragments (
Despite the devastation caused by the eruptions, the volcanic debris was found to be rich in nutrients, had good thermoregulatory properties and, importantly, excellent water absorption, so could hold the semi-arid island's scarce moisture. So, even before volcanic activity had died down, the islanders devised an ingenious method of viticulture in these otherwise harsh conditions, digging pits and building stone walls to protect the vines from the winds.
For an in-depth review of winemaking on Lanzarote, see this article on The Write Taste.
One of the most renowned producers on the island is Los Bermejos.
For centuries, the winery belonged to an important family, but lay dormant for many years. In 2001, Bermejo reopened under a new management team with a long family tradition of viticulture and winemaking. Within a short space of time, it had become one of the leading wine producers on the island.
Originally from Greece, Malvasía is believed to be named after the Pelopennese port of Monemvasia, from where it spread across the Mediterranean coast. Arriving in the Canary Islands from Madeira, it became one of the main varieties of Lanzarote, adapting to the harsh conditions and eventually mutating into a distinct clone, Malvasía Volcánica. Accounting for over two-thirds of the island's wine production, it is estimated that there are at least 21 different clones on Lanzarote alone! Wines are typically characterised by bracing acidity, tropical and citrus fruit notes plus a distinct mineral, saline freshness.
This wine was fermented in stainless steel and aged on its lees for three months.
🎚️ ABV: 13%.
🍇 Grapes: 100% Malvasía Volcánica.
🔍 Colour: Straw yellow with a slight tinge of pale green.
👃 Nose: Aromatic and floral with notes of apple, citrus, a little touch of mango and a hint of sea spray.
😋 Palate: Fresh and lively with notes of salty apple, lemon and tropical fruit plus a crisp, mineral finish.
🍽️ Food Pairings: White fish, light seafood appetisers, cheese salads, pasta with a creamy mushroom sauce.
💷 Price: £24.00 from Wine Shop Lanzarote.
Víctor Rafael Díaz Figueroa, owner of Bodega Vulcano, is the fifth generation of a winemaking family. In 2009, deciding that he'd rather make wine instead of selling on his grapes, Víctor established a winery with a stylish little shop off the main road in Tías. It even has its own road sign, while the Health Centre, a few doors away, does not! All the wines have vegan certification, the only winery on Lanzarote to do so.
Vijariego Blanco, aka Vijariego or Diego, is a less aromatic grape than Malvasía Volcánica. It's a thick-skinned, late-maturing, high acid variety, that produces dry, crisp, mineral wines with green apple, green pear, citrus and herbaceous notes. While currently accounting for less than 10% of wine production on the island, Vijariego is becoming increasingly sought after again. Although most wines, like those from Malvasía Volcánica, are meant to be drunk young within the first couple of years, Vijariego has the capacity to age a little longer.
This wine was barrel fermented, before being transferred to stainless steel tanks with bâtonnage adding further structure.
🎚️ ABV: 13%.
🍇 Grapes: 100% Vijariego.
🔍 Colour: Bright gold.
👃 Nose: Aromatic and floral with notes of tropical fruit, spring flowers, a touch of bread and hints of grated apple and cloves.
😋 Palate: Smooth and slightly creamy with good acidity, this shows juicy melon and dragon fruit notes, a hint of spice and fennel plus a mineral edge that continues on to the long finish.
🍽️ Food Pairings: Fish and vegetable stews, or a great match for the locally caught cherne (stone bass), served with Canarian potatoes and salad.
💷 Price: £35.99 from Wine Shop Lanzarote.
One of the most famous, active volcanic wine regions in Europe and another popular tourist destination is Mount Etna.
A volcanic vineyard at Pietradolce
Mount Etna is a unique, volcanic wine area and home to some of the oldest vineyards in Italy, many pre-phylloxera. Formed half a million years ago and located between the African and Eurasian tectonic plates, it's the highest active volcano in Europe. Phylloxera arrived late due to the prevalence of sand and lava soils at high altitude, but still led to a big decrease in vineyards. However, the last 20 years has seen a resurgence of winemaking here, beginning on the north slope of the volcano in the province of Castiglione di Sicilia.
Today, there are 1,300ha of vines within the Etna DOC, still a far cry from the 90,000ha around 150 years ago and 40,000ha in the early 1900s following the arrival of phylloxera.
For an in-depth review of winemaking on Etna, see this article on The Write Taste.
Nerello Mascalese is the most widespread grape variety on the slopes of Mount Etna and is used for red, rosé and sparkling wines. It's a thick-skinned grape and wines tend to be medium-bodied with relatively high levels of alcohol and acidity, red fruit and floral notes, minerality, good tannins and often a smoky edge. There are 750ha of Nerello Mascalese on the slopes of Mount Etna.
Robin Baum, aka 'The Egg Man', is an English winemaker in Italy. All his wines are organic or biodynamic and mainly matured in ceramic egg-shaped tanks, hence his nickname.
Dissatisfied with over-oaked, high alcohol wines, Baum set out to make expressive, balanced wines of a different style that preserved the natural flavours of the grapes. Influenced by ancient methods of winemaking with terracotta pots, he decided to use ceramic, egg-shaped tanks that promote the natural circulation of the fermenting juice inside. These vessels are inert, yet porous, so allow in a small amount of oxygen which adds roundness, smoothness, depth and complexity, but without any woodiness. The ovoid shape and resulting convection currents are believed to distribute oxygen and temperature evenly, minimising the formation of sediments and so contributing to unique wine expressions.
This prize-winning rosé is made from Nerello Mascalese grapes grown on the Northern slopes of the Mount Etna volcano. It's been aged for five months in ceramic eggs.
🎚️ ABV: 13%.
🍇 Grapes: 100% Nerello Mascalese.
🔍 Colour: Vibrant salmon pink.
👃 Nose: Notes of strawberry and raspberry compote plus orange zest, with hints of quince and delicate amber.
😋 Palate: Dry with good depth of flavour, showing notes of mixed berry summer pudding, redcurrant, blood orange zest and a saline, mineral edge that persists on the finish.
🍽️ Food Pairings: Light dishes, including grilled or poached salmon and goats cheese salads.
💷 Price: £13.00 from Robin Baum Wines.
A Moselle view
Felix Schäfer is an oenologist, dedicated to natural winemaking. In addition to working with Berlin winery, Britzer Weinkultur, he currently produces two minimal intervention wines from hand-harvested grapes grown on volcanic soil. One is from the Moselle and the other from Pantelleria, a small Mediterranean island measuring just over 80km2 in size, situated between south-west Sicily and Tunisia.
This 100% Riesling comes from Germany's oldest wine producing region. Steep, stony, slate slopes of volcanic-origin allow excellent drainage, important in an area with plenty of rainfall. They also store the sun's heat from the day, thus protecting the vines at night.
This wine has been aged for between 18 and 24 months in 1000-litre barrels.
🎚️ ABV: 12.5%.
🍇 Grapes: 100% Riesling.
🔍 Colour: Light gold.
👃 Nose: Touches of beeswax, honey, tropical fruit and a hint of kerosene.
😋 Palate: Bone dry and intensely mineral with notes of lemon, apple peel, flint, a hint of white peach and crisp acidity.
🍽️ Food Pairings: Try with cauliflower cheese, bread and hard cheese, bread with hummus or avocado.
